Star Ferry at Victoria Habour

Having lost count over twenty visits to Hong Kong since the 90s, the last one before this barely four months ago, the motivation that brought me to the former British colony, again with my family, was not only the historical significance of certain places here, in relation to our country's revolution, but particularly examine and look into lingering questions and, at worst, inaccuracies about personalities of significance we have been fed in history class.

Detailed directions, even fare rates, are provided hereafter to guide anyone interested in undertaking the same experience visiting a grave (a.k.a. ghost-hunting?) as an itinerary in their Hong Kong tour - other than Ocean Park and the overly-rated Disneyland.


My family had intended to conduct the search the day after we arrived, 27 April 2013, but the rain was a frustration. So the much anticipated graveyard tour took a backseat and we had it postponed till conditions became more favorable. Usually, April welcomes the approaching summer days ahead, particularly towards the end of the month.  We were expecting the warmth to shine on since it was already shearing, sweltering hot when we left Manila. Dejectedly, the weather here was somewhat freakish and maintained its gloom in the days that followed - as people on the streets still enrobed themselves in sweaters with umbrellas to boot. Noontime overcast at 22°C gets chilly when wind from the harbour gets factored-in.

Trams queue at Happy Valley terminus

Six days of dodging and waiting was too much.  So on May 1, despite the showers, we trooped to Happy Valley Cemetery.  From TST, we crossed the harbour by Star Ferry (adult fare: HK$2.50; child: HK$1.50) and walked the length of the footbridge towards Central. We hopped on an eastbound tram (blue route) along Des Voeux Road (corner Pedder Street) going towards its terminus at Happy Valley. We got off at the end of the line and transferred to another tram (red route) bound for Shau Kei Wan.  We got off on the first tram stop that was very close beside the gate of the old cemetery.  One is not allowed to talk to the tram driver but I had to for this one because no one is expected to stop at the cemetery this day, and at this hour.

Tram to Shau Kei Wan

Tram adult fare is HK$2.30; child HK$1.20, but refer here for update.  Pay the exact amounts because no change will be given.  We used Octopus Cards, a debit card that may be purchased from the concourse of any MTR station, which is very convenient during one's stay in Hong Kong. It can be used for paying fares for trains, trams, ferries and may also be used for buying grocery items and even pay for meals at Cafe de Coral or Fairwood!

Travelling by tram may be a bit slow, unless you want to enjoy watching how the city's busy street-life holler around. You may opt to take the faster alternative by hopping on Bus No. 10 (bound for North Point) at the stop infront of Hang Seng Bank along Des Veoux Road in Central. Get off at Queen Elizabeth Stadium on Queen's Road East. Adult fare: $3.40, child: $1.70.  When riding the bus, watch out for your bus stop that is announced/flashed on the headboard via a trailing LED read-out. Press red button by the door rail to stop bus.  Cross Queen's Road East and walk 50m towards Wong Nai Chung Road, turn right and walk 200m to the entrance of St. Michael's Catholic Cemetery or 300m to the entrance of Happy Valley Cemetery farther south.     

next page: Grave No. 4258





My other blogs:


Traditional Hong Kong Herbal Tea House
Jou San! Sham Shui Po
Caramoan: Island-Gems of Camarines Sur, Philippines